Patrons looking for a different take on the classic British tradition can head to Colonel Saab Restaurant in Holborn, where an Indian‑style afternoon tea is served under a canopy of dramatic chandeliers.
Atmosphere blends heritage and colour
The dining room is dominated by burgundy walls lined with colourful plates, antique artworks and a vintage wooden temple window. Photographs of Army Officer Colonel Manbeer Choudhary and his wife Binny, the parents of owner Roop Pratap Choudhary, sit among the décor, highlighting the family’s connection to Indian culture.
The setting feels both romantic and travel‑inspired, offering a visual feast before the palate is tested.
What’s on the plate
The tea service includes ten items, a mix of savoury and sweet treats. The pink Aloo bonds slider arrives first, a masala‑spiced potato ball drizzled with tamarind and coriander sauce that delivers a bright burst of flavour. A neighbouring Tikona samosa, filled with mashed masala, pairs well with the same sauce, making for a hearty bite.
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A Bombay‑style grilled sandwich, featuring spiced cottage cheese and mozzarella on toasted white bread, sits on the platter but is easy to skip if appetite wanes. Instead, many guests reach for the chakli—spiral‑shaped biscuits made from gram flour, rice and lentils. Served alongside a cup of fruit‑infused Persian pomegranate tea, the crispy snack functions much like a digestive biscuit in a traditional tea setting.
Sweet options include a coconut‑and‑rose laddu, essentially a rose‑flavoured ball rolled in dry coconut, a bite‑sized fruit tart, and a lentil‑and‑jaggery paysam—a South Indian pudding. The highlight for many is the mud‑cake cup, presented as an edible chocolate plant pot and topped with a gulab jamun that resembles a tiramisu‑style dessert.
Even with the Indian twist, a traditional scone makes an appearance. The “raison” scone comes with strawberry jam and cream, ensuring that classic British expectations are still met.
At £35 per person, the experience is marketed as good value, though the quantity of items means most diners cannot finish the entire selection in one sitting. The menu permits guests to take leftovers home, extending the tea experience beyond the restaurant walls.
The combination of spicy chai, fragrant masala, and familiar sweet accompaniments creates a setting that feels both novel and comfortably familiar for tea‑goers.
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From a broader perspective, this approach reflects a growing trend among London eateries to reinterpret British staples through global lenses. By offering an Indian‑styled tea, Colonel Saab taps into a market of diners seeking cultural variety without abandoning the ritual of afternoon tea.
Such hybrid concepts can attract both expatriates craving a taste of home and locals curious about new flavour profiles.
The experience feels unforgettable.
Overall, the service is described as a “truly lovely gourmet experience,” with the décor matching the culinary ambition. The venue’s address is 193‑197 High Holborn, London, WC1V 7BD, near Holborn Town Hall. The tea service, though priced competitively, delivers a mix of visual intrigue and palate‑pleasing dishes that may persuade visitors to return for a repeat tasting.
