For Christiane Smit, a ceramic artist and owner of Moonhouse, a holiday on Paros in 2008 changed the course of her life. She says of her unplanned move to the Cycladic island, “It wasn’t a carefully planned life decision, it was something I felt instinctively.” Christiane Smit listened to that feeling, stayed, and started building a completely new life on the island.
Christiane Smit has lived all over the island since then. She now operates a ceramics atelier in the village of Lefkes and owns the stunningly minimalist clifftop villa rental Moonhouse—both of which are open to visitors. Christiane Smit is currently completing the restoration of a nearly 100-year-old stone house in the village of Kostos.
Shoulder Season on Paros
Christiane Smit states that the sweetest time in Paros is late spring or early autumn. The island feels wonderfully balanced during this time: everything is open, but life is still unhurried. She loves walking through the villages in the morning, when the streets are still quiet. The air smells of jasmine, fresh bread from the bakery, and the sea.
The light is what inspires Christiane Smit most. It changes constantly, making the whitewashed houses glow and bringing out every texture in the stone. As a ceramic artist, she finds herself collecting those colors, textures, and moments every day. They’re as much a part of her work as the clay itself.
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Local Life and Traditions
During the shoulder season, it’s mostly locals who are around. The cafés are filled with familiar faces, fishermen are heading out in the morning, and shop owners have time to stop and chat. Christiane Smit also meets a small number of travelers: people who aren’t looking for the typical summer vacation, but who want to experience the island more slowly and authentically.
Christiane Smit has come to appreciate the warmth and sense of community of the people of Paros. Even though it’s a popular island in summer, life outside the season is very local. People know one another, and there’s a genuine willingness to help each other. There’s also a deep respect for craftsmanship—from marble carving, for which the Cyclades are famous, to fishing, farming, and handmade work.
Favorite Places and Activities
One of Christiane Smit’s favorite places is the family-run taverna at Hotel Julia in Drios. She loves it because it feels authentic and unchanged, a place where generations have welcomed people with simple, honest food and genuine hospitality. Christiane Smit’s perfect day always starts with a swim in the crystal-clear waters just below the taverna.
It’s the villages, Lefkes, Marpissa, Prodromos, Kostos, and Dryos, that reveal the character of Paros through seasonal festivals, religious celebrations, and community events.
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A Perfect Saturday
Christiane Smit’s perfect Saturday begins slowly with a coffee in her house, catching the first sunlight. From there, she’ll often wander through Lefkes, Marpissa, or Prodromos before a long lunch at a traditional taverna. In the afternoon, Christiane Smit usually heads back to her ceramic studio. The quieter months are when she’s most creative.
At sunset, Christiane Smit loves taking a walk along one of the beaches or coastal paths. Even in winter, there are many clear, sunny days, and the light over the Aegean is extraordinary. She usually ends the day with friends over a simple meal and a glass of wine. Christiane Smit also enjoys walking the ancient Byzantine paths that weave between villages, finding joy in the silence and the journey.
This winter is especially meaningful, as Christiane Smit will be putting the finishing touches on a small renovation project in the village of Kostos, a space she’s been shaping with the same care and intention that she brings to her ceramics. Creating a home is, in many ways, another form of making, and Christiane Smit finds great joy in both.
