Guilin is often used as a poster child for China, yet it remains a destination many international travelers miss. Located in the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, the city is famous for its karst mountains and the Li River. The area is defined by sharply pointed peaks rising from a gentle river, often shrouded in mist. While photos capture the scenery, the experience of floating along the river on a bamboo raft, watching fishermen and water buffalo, is something that cannot be replicated through a lens. Despite this, the city’s location in the southwest, bordering Vietnam, often makes it a secondary choice for tourists focused on the convenience of Beijing or Shanghai.
Guilin is home to four million people, meaning the authentic Chinese culture and modern city living expected in a major metropolitan area are present in abundance. The Riyue Shuangta Park serves as a central hub for this urban life. The park is named after the sun and moon twin pagodas that stand tall in the center of a lake. By night, the pagodas are illuminated, one gold and the other silver, creating a reflective backdrop for the area. It is a common gathering spot for retirees who dance to traditional folk music, and it is also a popular location for tourists to enjoy a beer while watching the scene unfold. The park area also provides access to the Xicheng Road night market, where diners can try Guilin staples like mifen, or rice noodles. The dish is highly customizable, with plain rice noodles served alongside a variety of spices, pickles, vegetables, meats, and broths. Locals often prefer a combination of spicy pickled vegetables, beef slices, meaty gravy, and a boiled egg, but visitors are free to experiment with the ingredients.
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Guilin’s other famous dish is pijiu yu, or beer fish. The dish features river carp fried to a crispy skin, served in a rich and tangy sauce made from tomatoes, spices, soy sauce, and beer. It is designed to be shared at the center of a table with friends and bowls of rice. While eating is a highlight, the Li River itself offers a more direct connection to the natural beauty surrounding the city. A boat ride along the river to Yangshuo takes about four hours. The captain of the vessel warns that the scenery in the first hour is less impressive than what follows, but the journey becomes increasingly dramatic. By the third hour, the karst peaks rise more theatrically and the atmosphere becomes serene. The boat eventually docks, allowing visitors to explore Yangshuo from above. The Ruyi Peak cable car ascends to mountaintops, where walkways and a swaying red footbridge extend between peaks. From this vantage point, the endless sea of green conical peaks creates a view that is worth overcoming any fear of heights.
The Ruyi Peak cable car ascends to mountaintops, where walkways and a swaying red footbridge extend between peaks. From this vantage point, the endless sea of green conical peaks creates a view that is worth overcoming any fear of heights.
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Guilin’s location in the southwest used to be a deterrent for travelers who did not speak Mandarin. Over the last decade, technological advances have changed this dynamic. The Trip app has simplified the process of buying tickets in English, making it easier to handle the rail system without flying internally. This accessibility removes the previous barriers that kept tourists focused on larger, more famous cities.
